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On January 5th, 2024, I departed LAX via Houston to Santiago Chile descending at dawn over the treeless, massive Andes mountain range. Met up with my friend flying in from Germany – in customs no less! Wow, what a great start to what was an amazing trip that ended when I touched back down at LAX from Buenos Aires, on January 31st.  Longest trip possibly ever.  I hope there will be many more.

As many of you know if you regularly read my blog, I love to cruise. This was an exceptional journey and I recommend it highly. Not a full on so-called expedition cruise to Antarctica with the zodiacs and getting on the Antarctic ice, this cruise takes a gentler approach to visiting the continent known as scenic cruising of Antarctica. We also made several port calls in Chile, Argentina Uruguay and the Falkland Islands.

We drifted silently backwards out of San Antonio port Chile January 8th at 5am, 11 hours late as the port was closed overnight due high winds, heading south along the western coast of South America in moderate seas. This was a fortunate delay for 210 passengers that would otherwise have not made it on board due to missed connections to South America from the US as this was the day the B737MAX-9 was grounded.

First call at Puerto Mont Chile was canceled due to the delayed departure. Canceled ports of call happen, mostly due to weather or political/safety concerns. So our first call was Puerto Chacabuco, a tiny town in Patagonia Southern Chile. Meandering through the Chilean fjords to get there, we anchored and tendered to shore. Had a wonderful hike with Sebastian our guide through rainforest and to a waterfall, followed by a roast lamb lunch on the beautiful Lake Riesco. Back on board our home away from home, the Holland America Oosterdam, we enjoyed a promenade deck walk to take in our silent gliding exit surrounded by panoramic views before heading to one of many fine multi course dinners in the dining room. Continuing through glacier alley as we journeyed ever South through the beautiful and majestic fjords surrounding us on all sides.

In the Magellan straight we called at Punta Arenas, which together with Port Stanley in the Falklands and Ushuaia Argentina are the jumping off points in South America for Antarctic exploration and cruising for 100’s of years and still today. The farther south the colder it became, we already unpacked our down parka’s with fur trimmed hoods on day 2, enroute to Puerto Chacabucco. The crisp cold air was invigorating. In Punta Arenas we saw the Sir David Attenborough research & logistics vessel out of Port Stanley, operated by the British Antarctic Survey. We self explored in Punta Arenas visiting the Recoleta (graveyard), featured in a list of most beautiful cemeteries in the world compiled by CNN Travel, and other points of interest. We continued our regular promenade deck walks or lounging in the teak steamer chairs with a book or laptop with wool rugs on our laps and enjoying the scenery going by. We often split up too as not everyone wants to do all the same thing!  I am very easy going with this as I travel solo a lot.

Our Antarctic experience team came aboard in Punta Arenas and were with us for the next week. Knowledgeable Antarctic explorers and researchers from New Zealand and Australia, they gave several informative talks each day. I especially enjoyed Grame Avery’s talk about Sir Ernst Shakletons’ Antarctic Expedition of 1914-1917.  A successful failure, well documented in the by now famous book Endurance, it’s an incredible story of survival and adventure. I started reading it on board and it’s an amazing story. I immediately chose it as I was next up in book club to chose a book. I enjoyed talking to Dr. Ed Butler as he had done his PhD thesis on ice aging (similar to tree rings he explained in one of his talks) at McMurdo Sound, the larger of the 2 US stations (1000 people). McMurdo is in Eastern Antarctica and was where my father was for a couple of months in the 1960’s when he was with NASA. Seeing Antarctica was especially meaningful to me because my father had been there in a research capacity.

Onward to Ushuaia Argentina, and Tiera Del Fuego, we took the scenic Train to the End of the World through windswept Argentinian landscape. Upon arrival in the morning the port was busy with several research, cruise and expedition vessels docked for the day. Upon our evening departure we were one of the last ships to go.  Next morning we jumped into warm clothing to be on deck on the bow at 6am as we rounded Cape Horn and got quite close to the lighthouse there.  Two hours later we had the South American continent in the rear view mirror as we headed out across the Drake passage, a 600+ mile crossing  to Western Antarctica. I was excited. This passage where the Southern Atlantic meets the Pacific can be some of the roughest seas on the planet.  The Drake was a lake for us on this crossing so no problem with soup staying on the table. Sea days for me mean a visit to the spa for a massage, promenade deck laps (at least 10,000 steps) hot chocolate and tea lounging in the Crow’s Nest, Indian food at the lido buffet, rack of lamb and Sacher torte at dinner, Antarctic talks, reading, getting some work done (Starlink wifi is excellent) and any number of other things you might want to do on board.

On the morning of day 3 out from Cape Horn we were once again up at 6am on the bow bundled up as we arrived Palmer Station one of 2 US bases in Antarctica.  60 people man this station in the summer October – March. Graeme spoke with the team leader over SAT phone and this was played on the intercom. Bergie bits littered the sea around us with larger growlers and the still larger icebergs and snow encrusted continent surrounded us EVERYWHERE. Dead ahead with binoculars we saw the flagpole of Palmer station that we were talking to. Captain got us as close as possible, we rested in place for about an hour taking in the Antarctic environment in all its spectacular icy coldness for the first time. Though in the Drake passage we began to see monster sized ice bergs half way through the crossing, this was something altogether different. The largest iceberg in the world named A23 is here in the region,  measuring 40 x 32 nautical miles. The previous departure of this cruise in December going the opposite direction from Buenos Aires to Santiago had seen it, it was too far out of range on our journey. Icebergs are constantly in motion as you can imagine.

Over the next 4 days we navigated at no faster than 9 knots (speed limit to avoid hitting whales) through various channels, inlets, bays and islands understanding now why it’s called the White Continent, the unpleasant smell of penguin guano (we would be that close), the silence, the majesty, the peacefulness, the quiet drama that is Antarctica. I’ve been to Alaska twice, this is more than just Alaska++. We did not anchor nor dock during the 4 nights in the region. The Oosterdam captain kept us in sheltered areas, the ship has thrusters and techniques to rest in place. One night was kind of rough so he exited the channel to open water to have more distance from icebergs. Navigation team and ice captain on board work very hard 24/7. In my memories forever and included in my pictures are Cuverville Island, Charlotte Bay, Paradise Bay, and finally Elephant Island and Wild Point of Shackelton fame. I had begun reading Endurance on audio book whilst walking the promenade deck taking in Antarctica so it was especially front of mind and impactful when we hovered at wild Point and one is stunned imagining how the crew could have survived there. If you are wondering why I spent so much time outside on deck with the cold (10-20 degrees F + wind) that was the best place to experience Antarctica in visual surround sound and you feel compelled to be there for the full impact of all of it.

Antarctica; it has a flag and there is a multi nation Antarctic Treaty which states the following: a natural reserve devoted to peace and science. All visits in accordance to the Antarctic treaty and its protocol. Parties are committed to the principles and purpose of the Antarctic treaty. Peaceful use, freedom of scientific investigation and cooperation. Big Science is being undertaken there, studies that involve the health and well being of our plant. We know the ozone hole is healing from studies undertaken there. This is the main reason the vibe there was so peaceful for me. Multiple nations cooperating for the purposes of peace and science, the only threat being mother nature, not each other. Antarctica is 97.6% covered in snow and ice up to 3 miles thick compressed over millions of years. It’s larger than the continental US, ice volume is 6 million cubic miles. The numbers are hard to comprehend. A last one though, if it all melted it would raised global sea levels by 200 feet.  In talks we were told ice melt rate does not portend imminent catastrophe but is illuminating.  Global warming is real. There is no native human or animal population, though birds and sea life abound. There are no towns, just the various Antarctic treaty countries’ research and survey stations. Winter population of Antarctica about 1,000, summer about $4,500. Punta Arenas is the closest commercial airport. There are around 45 landing facilities across the continent allowing special equipped aircraft to transport scientists, equipment and some tourists every summer. A Norse special charter recently landed at Troll Field, first B787 Dreamliner and largest plane ever to touch down in Antartica. The so called Ice Runway is the principal landing sight for the US. The workhorse of the US Antarctic program is the ski-equipped LC-130 Hercules, Twin Otters, DC-3’s and C-17 Globemaster.

And then on our last day in the region, we made our way into the Southern Ocean surrounding Antarctica to Elephant Island, a moving experience having listened to Graeme’s talk about the Shackleton expedition and now reading Endurance. We made our way the approximately 350 miles in the luxurious 935 foot Oosterdam; Shackleton and his men had made their way once they took to the water from the ice floe where the Endurance had been trapped for 9 months then sank, in three 22.5 foot wooden boats. Our Captain brought the Oosterdam right up close to Wild point where Shackleton’s men waited 4 months for rescue. The cold, the wind, the sifting fog and clouds, the stench of the penguin guano; it was hard to believe his men survived here.  That the Shackleton expedition survived at all is astonishing. Amongst the last of the explorers from the heroic age of exploration, Sir Ernest Shackleton is revered still today as an example or extraordinary leadership. Sir Raymond Priestly said “Scott for scientific method, Amundsen for speed and efficiency, but when disaster strikes and all hope is gone, get down on your knees and pray for Shackleton”.

And finally, instead of casting off in a 22.5 foot wooden boat from Elephant Island to South Georgia as Shackleton and 5 of his men did in their final push for rescue, undertaking the 800 mile journey traversing the notorious Southern Ocean Drake passage seas, we undertook said crossing enroute to Stanley, Falkland Islands. Drake Shake this time, 5 meter waves but still not bad (Captain said Oosterdam can do 12+ meter waves if she must), soup stayed on the table, the Weiner Schnitzel was excellent and the dining room was humming. I don’t know how Shackleton and his men did it with a sextant a chronometer and dead reckoning. The first Step Dance company (really excellent not your usual cruise ship review of old) did not perform on the crossing though.

Two days later our Captain wrestled us into Stanley, Falkland Islands, the locals were a bit stunned but delighted to see us. It was very windy. Captain said it had been touch and go for a while (Falklands call is often canceled due weather), what saved us was the wind was coming from the right direction. A British dependent territory, windswept, charming slightly disheveled outpost of England with more Land Rover’s per capita than anywhere on the planet, I loved the Falklands. Visiting the grocery store was like being in England. They have once weekly charter supply flights from London of which a certain number seats are available for residents and family members to purchase. LATAM also has a once weekly flight from Santiago via Punta Arenas. The museum is excellent with amazing history and stories through the ages about Antarctica and the Falklands including the 1982 war. Downgraded to lighter weight puffer coat and knit cap here, chilly but no longer freezing cold. Captain was happy to be leaving that evening as it was anchor dragging wind (it’s a tender port). They told us that when ashore in the Falklands, if we hear 3 blasts of the ship’s horn to return to the ship immediately, we need to leave.

By the time we arrived Puerto Madryn, Argentina 2 days later it was 80 degrees and sunny so out came flip flops and sundresses. Left my flip flops at home so bought a pair of Havaianas for $12 (as opposed to $30 in the States). Had coffee and cake in a lovely shop, strolled the beach, then headed back on board to avoid some labor protestors near the docks they had warned us about. Sunbathed on deck, read…felt like we’d time travelled with the weather being so vastly different from Falklands and Antarctica. By now we had left Antarctica 4 days prior. Punta Del Este Uruguay, know as the Riviera of South America, boasted beautiful villas and a casual beach scene, it’s a tax haven for those decamping Argentina or the UK. We went to the beach and enjoyed more pastry and coffee… the tender ride to and from the ship was an especially breathtaking view.

In Montevideo Uruguay we toured the very well done Andes museum chronicling the well known plane crash of the Uruguay soccer team as featured in the movie “Society of the Snow”.  I toured the stunning iconic landmark, the Palacio Salva, built in 1928 designed by an Italian immigrant architect with a sister property in Buenos Aires. The building was intended to be a hotel but it never served that purpose and today is home to offices and apartments. It’s desperately in need of a renovation but there’s no money materializing at this time per our guide, a thoughtful college student, neither from the government nor the private sector. What’s needed well exceeds what even a special assessment by an HOA could accomplish. This is a common story in South America, I’m told, many beautiful aging crumbling buildings and infrastructure.

That evening we wiggled out from our docked position in Montevideo, past the mega ship MSC Fantasia through a small exit and into the silty brown waters of the Rio de la Plata, which is the massive river that flows into the Atlantic and keeps the water permanently muddy enroute to our final destination, Buenos Aires.  It’s also shallow, we threaded our way through red and green buoys the entire way. Docked alongside downtown, we explored Buenos Aires for 2 days, with one more night aboard Oosterdam and one in a sweet boutique hotel.  Buenos Aires is vibrant and multi faceted. We were given warnings about areas being unsafe (muggings, pickpocketing) and we took note but did a lot of walking nevertheless and kept our radar on high alert and did not felt unsafe. We ate beef at a Parilla (steakhouse), pastries at Cafe Tortoni (The Les Deux Magots of Buenos Aires) and walked the streets of the “Paris of South America”. It really does give that impression with some of the architecture which is scattered about.  We visited the Recoleta Buenos Aires as well, and the mausoleum of Eva Durante (Peròn) and were impressed by a Tango performance.

So many memorable sights and impressions, adventures, actives, meals on board and off, averaging 12,000 steps a day (not exaggerating), I sank into my United Airlines seat at 10pm on July 30th, breakfasted in the priority club lounge at Houston at 5am, took off again at sunrise to Los Angeles and had a second breakfast at my kitchen table with my daughter Devon at 10am.  I would definitely do this trip again!